Chef goes under the knife!

So, the hiatus ends.  Sometimes in life we are forced to stop what we’re doing, think and re-assess our lives. Recently, we had such a moment.

The Chef had a nasty persistent cough that three courses of antibiotics could not fix. After seeing three doctors in a week and undergoing blood tests for whooping cough; x-rays; a CTC scan; a biopsy; and visiting a specialist, he was informed he had two nodules in the left lobe of his thyroid gland. The smaller nodule (10mm) is definitely cancerous and the larger nodule (43mm) is most likely benign, but considered suspicious.

Pause.  

The first “c” word

Thankfully the cancer was found early and was contained to his thyroid. The Chef is also fortunate that the cancer resides in a part of the body that is easily removed and not an essential organ or in part of his brain or bones. The specialist informed Chef that this particular type of cancer (papillary carcinoma) spreads slowly and is one of the least dangerous thyroid cancers.

The Chef is generally a very calm (when he’s not in the kitchen), practical man, and it wasn’t until the weeks after his diagnosis when he was driving to work or sitting at home alone that he contemplated the state of his health and the implications had he not seen a doctor now and let things pass for another six or 12 months.

The second “c” word

The Chef will go under the surgeon’s knife on Friday to have his thyroid removed. We’re hoping the removal of his thyroid may assist in rediscovering the calm aspect of Chef’s nature. The thyroid is an endocrine gland and as such its main function is to secrete endocrine hormones.  After his thyroid is removed the Chef will need to take thyroid hormone pills for the rest of his life.

The third “c” word

As with any surgery there is always the chance of complications. In his case the Chef could experience the following if there are complications during his surgery:  

• voice box injury or hoarseness in the voice post-surgery;
• cancer spreading to lungs, bones, heart, brain or other parts of the body (if it is not all removed during surgery);
• low calcium levels if parathyroid glands are accidently removed during surgery.

We’re hoping everything runs smoothly and the Chef has a speedy recovery.

It must be an odd feeling for the king of knives to be placed on a stainless steel bench like a duck carcass and have his throat region dissected by the hands of a man with precision of a different kind.

Good luck Chefy, I’ll be praying for you! xo

Chef Profiles: Elaine Lee

Elaine Lee is the Head Chef of the City Hotel, Sydney. Elaine kindly responded to the following questions for this blog:

Did a family member influence you regarding cooking in your early life?

My Mother has always been a huge influence in my cooking life. When I was younger back in Singapore, my family used to have gatherings every weekend. My Mother has nine other siblings, the table would be full of food with at least ten dishes. The feeling of eating together with loved ones is indescribable. That’s when I realized that I wanted to be in the food industry.  Even today my Mother and I often share ideas and tips on cooking.

What type of apprentice were you? Do you believe in apprenticeships?

I was a very eager learner as an apprentice. I think that apprenticeships are very important. I believe that building a strong foundation is very crucial in every career. Not many people have the opportunity to do so.

At what age did you realise which direction you wanted to take in this industry?

Probably at the age of 12 when my Mother sent my sisters and I on a trip to America and Japan where I tried different foods from different cultures for the first time. I have always wondered then what goes on in the kitchen of a restaurant and how the food eventually comes to our table.

After achieving early success, what motivates you to continue in this industry?

It is the passion that I have for food and the satisfaction that I get when I see an empty plate come back to the kitchen. The adrenaline rush that I get when pushing out 250 meals in an hour and a half with two of my chefs and a kitchen hand. And last but not least the ability to share my knowledge and vision with my kitchen brigade and my customers.

How many attempts when writing a new menu or creating a new dish?

It varies, I will always try to perfect a dish even if I think it is flawless. I think the majority of chefs are perfectionists.

Have you got a signature dish?

I’ve got quite a few actually, but my favourite is the trio of pork. I think that pork is a very versatile food source to work with.  My dish consists of crispy pork belly, spiced pork fillet and homemade truffled sausage, served with glazed apples, roasted lemon potatoes and a balsamic jus.

My favourite pork dish to eat is ‘pig’s organ soup’ where I can only have in Singapore. It is a clear soup with pig’s heart, lungs, intestines, blood, stomach, tongue, liver and meat of course! I sometimes wish that I could put that dish on my menu here … maybe one day.

Describe your best or worst experience in the kitchen

BEST: When I took  part in the National Skills Competition in Singapore in the year 2000. It was an eight hour competition where we had to create from scratch, a five course ‘mystery basket’ menu and present two dishes of every course to the judges. I created a menu incorporating Asian flavours with French techniques and came in first place. That was the best feeling ever.

Solid teamwork and synchronicity are paramount to success in this industry. How do you build an awesome team?

Just to mention a few points:

• Good communication
• Recognition
• Respect
• Focusing on individuals strengths
• Improving on individuals weaknesses

 How often have you reinvented yourself or changed direction?

I have worked in hotels for about 20 years and five years in restaurants and gastro pubs. In this day and age I find that you need to constantly reinvent yourself and your outlook in the culinary world to keep up-to-date with the food trends and what your customer wants.

How much food research do you do?

Almost every day, mostly on the internet and I buy a lot of cookbooks written by famous chefs. I love dining out especially to hatted restaurants.

If I wasn’t a chef I’d be …

Really bored not knowing what to do with so much free time.

My hobbies are …

Food and music. I would like to be the chef that can cook your meals for a function and then spin music for the after party.

 Still cooking when you’re 50?

Absolutely, if not professionally – recreationally!

Chef Profiles: Scott Webster

Scott Webster is Executive Chef/Owner of The Carrington in Newcastle, NSW. Scott kindly responded to the following questions for this blog:

Did a family member influence you regarding cooking in your early life?

No, cooking was an elective class done by girls at school so it seemed a much better idea to do cooking rather than metalwork or woodwork with a class full of fellas! This got my interest in food at the age of 13.

What type of apprentice were you? Do you believe in apprenticeships?

I was an apprentice chef at Royal Sydney Golf Club from 1976 to 1979 and in 1978 was NSW Apprentice of the Year. Formal training cannot be underestimated. You learn all the right skills and techniques to be able to create and evolve. Formal training qualifications give much needed satisfaction and a much better understanding of overall food and beverage operations.

At what age did you realise which direction you wanted to take in this industry?

I think it is hard as a young person to realise a direction in such a diverse industry. By planning short term goals, the bigger picture tends to evolve quite quickly. You cannot substitute experience, the more you have the more ability you have to do more things within the industry!

After achieving early success, what motivates you to continue in this industry?

Motivation is the hardest thing to maintain as you get older in our industry. You cannot spend the endless hours on the stove as you once did. Younger chefs are quicker and more dynamic as culinary trends shift and change. The motivation is to be able to harness young energy to move forward and create new trends and maintain some of the older ones.

How many attempts when writing a new menu or creating a new dish?

This can vary, an idea can be realised quite quickly, on the other hand, take a new product and research and development must occur before taste, texture and presentation is the right one.

Have you got a signature dish? What is it?

My signature dish has to be my hot chocolate soup w/ cracked black pepper ice-cream. It is a dish that was developed in my London restaurant and is now on menus here and in Singapore.

Describe your best or worst experience in the kitchen.

Controlling and running kitchen brigades for three different olympic games must be a highlight. I was at the 1984 Los Angeles games, 1988 in Calgary, Alberta and again in 2000 in Sydney.

Solid teamwork and synchronicity are paramount to success in this industry. How do you build an awesome team?

Unfortunately, building a great team is getting harder and harder. I think much of it is due to the lack of formal training in both skills and work ethics. Today, as an owner operator, you need to be patient and humble, yet firm and strict at the same time. Offering opportunities that other employers cannot also gives a small advantage.

How often have you reinvented yourself or changed direction?

Being able to shift with market trends is a skill and task we need to have today as chefs. We cannot cook today what we cooked yesterday. In saying that, when we establish ourselves in market, we need to know what our customers want and do it better than anyone else in town.

How much food research do you do?

I find books and other reading material are a good way to see which way the market turns from year to year. Suppliers will generally always have the same ingredients in each market we cook in. Some are diversifying and coming up with new ingredients which stimulates development and new ideas. Reading about what others are doing is a great tool. Travel is also the best form of knowledge accruement!

If I wasn’t a chef I’d be … ?

Happy and relaxed!

My hobbies are … ?

My work!

Still cooking when you’re 50?

I am!

Chef’s Choice: What is your favourite/recommended brand or type of butter, olive oil, salt, produce etc?

I love Himalayan pink salt, Freemantle octopus & White Pyrenees lamb cuts.

Hats off!

It’s a beautiful spring morning, sun is shining, sky iridescent blue, not a cloud in the sky and it’s a long weekend. No ordinary weekend, it is grand final weekend. The combination of gorgeous weather, extra day off and two football grand finals equals a weekend of feasting and drinking in the great outdoors. For many in this country it is a weekend of celebration and getting together with family and friends.

During weekends like this there are generally two options for providing meals to your loved ones and guests. DIY or eat out?

Preparation

The Chef left home at 6am this morning to check deliveries, do stocktake and start prep for the day. He has to contact food suppliers and place orders. He’ll estimate quantity of food to be consumed over the weekend, taking into consideration the weather, number of orders from the same weekend last year, factor in any other anomalies and hope he is on the mark.

Service

When service begins the adrenaline does too. It starts at a steady pace and increases rapidly. He has to hope nobody phones in sick (or if they do, he needs a replacement ASAP); all equipment functions smoothly (because this is not the weekend for something to break down); all food ordered is delivered as requested; and no injuries in the kitchen (as happens in the tornado of service at peak times like this).

During morning prep, throughout service and at day end, his eyes and ears are everywhere. He has to ensure kitchen staff adhere to food safety standards, equipment is cleaned to spec, waste management undertaken properly and food labelled, dated and stored correctly for next service.

No room for error

The result of this effort is a meal on a plate at the table. In most cases people will be pleased with the food, distracted with the footy, and perhaps plastered with alcohol. If you enjoy the meal enough you may write a recommendation or review on eatability.com. On the flip side, if something goes awry, or there is a problem with the food, reputations can be ruined on one foul experience. There is very little room for error, even when the kitchen is dispensing 400 meals over a busy lunch service. The pressure is intense and gives credence to the cliché: “if you can’t stand the heat …”.

End of a long day

After a hectic day in the kitchen the only thing chef wants when he gets home is to sit down, rest his mind and cool his palate. No noise, questions or expectations. He wants birdsong, a bowl of yoghurt, dog sleeping peacefully, and wife by his side.

Have a good weekend … and if you enjoy your meal, please send your compliments to the Chef!

How Green was my salad?

There is hope for me yet! This week I made dinner for the Chef three times. Woohoo!

Perhaps it has something to do with my “free” time. I decided I should begin with something simple for the Chef’s dinner on Monday night. The result must have been passable as he enquired about Tuesday night’s dinner (or perhaps he was having an “I can’t iron” moment), who knows?

Three Dinners: – Bird Lamb Fish (with apologies to Bird Cow Fish!)

• Monday: Chicken schnitzel with Australia Day salad
• Tuesday: Marinated lamb roast with salad of roast beetroot, spinach and goat’s cheese
• Friday: Pan fried ocean trout with asparagus pasta salad

Australia Day Salad

I began with a salad I’d previously attempted under the Chef’s guidance at Christmas time. I’ll call it the Australia Day salad due to its rich colour (the main ingredients being green and gold). It is a basic salad consisting of fresh corn, basil leaves and Spanish onion dressed in balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Seasoned with salt and pepper. So simple, but it packs a punch … strong aromatic flavours and perhaps not one for the little kids (unless they like raw Spanish onion).

I should have followed Chef’s advice on where to purchase the chicken schnitzel (because I did not make that from scratch). Ah-huh, you should’a’ listened to the expert! Never mind. Lesson learned.

The salad is very easy to make. Boil corn cobs in water with a knob of butter (we’ll talk about knobs in a later post on measurement), wash and pick the basil leaves, peel and dice a Spanish onion. When the corn is cooked, drain it and leave to cool. Use a pair of tongs and a sharp knife to slice the corn from the cob and mix all ingredients in a stainless steel mixing bowl.  Dress salad when ready to serve.

Roast Beetroot, Baby Spinach and Goat’s Cheese Salad

Another very basic salad, only requiring extra preparation for roasting the beetroot. I roasted the beetroot in aluminium foil in a moderate oven for 40 minutes and left it to cool slightly. Chef advises it is better to remove the beetroot skin when it is still warm. Add red wine vinegar and olive oil dressing when serving. Season with salt and pepper.

Warning: The beetroot is going to stain your hands … but you can just peel fast and wash them a few times immediately after peeling (I hear some people wear gloves).

The roast lamb was already marinated when I bought it from the supermarket (cheater).

Asparagus Pasta Salad

So Friday arrives and I think I’ll surprise the Chef with dinner again. It’s another hot day and I’ve purchased ocean trout fillets for dinner. What to eat with ocean trout? Asparagus pasta salad sounds alright. I liked this salad because of the combo of pasta, asparagus, kalamata olives, Spanish onion and greens.

Again, a simple meal with little preparation required. You’ll just need to cook some pasta and asparagus for the salad prior to cooking your fish (pasta and asparagus need time to cool before you mix the salad).

You can add protein such as boiled egg or tuna to this salad to complete it as a meal (for those of you that don’t like oily fish).

Chef’s Salad Tips:

• Onions in a salad are usually always sliced or diced – Chef’s don’t use onion rings in a salad (according to himself)
• When using pasta in a salad choose pasta that will easily absorb the flavours and bind the ingredients such as pipe rigate, orecchiette or farfalle. Don’t use large spiral pasta with chunky ingredients as I did, because it doesn’t hold the ingredients well.
• Chop/dice all salad ingredients the same size (my basil leaves should have been sliced to match the size of the corn kernels).
• Keep it simple, three or four main ingredients and then just add the seasoning and dressing when ready to serve.
• Use contrasting flavours in salads (ie for sweet salad ingredients, use a sharp dressing).
• Adding butter to boiling vegetables such as corn cobs and asparagus enhances the flavour, boosting the flavour of your salad (and unfortunately, your waistline if you don’t work it off!).

Chef’s Salad Base Suggestions:

For future use the Chef has provided a few salad base suggestions. Add your own personal touches.

• Tomato, basil, Spanish onion
• Beetroot, goat’s cheese
• Zucchini, chicken, lemon thyme
• Egg, lettuce
• Orange, fennel
• Tuna, potato, green beans

Your Favourite Salads

I love consuming salads during spring and summer but I’m often frustrated with my lack of imagination for coming up with new ideas and end up with same boring salads day in and out.

Sometimes it is the dressing that makes a salad, other times it is the freshness of its ingredients. I know someone who makes the most delicious potato salad I’ve ever eaten and she uses a particular brand of mayonnaise.

Does anyone have an awesome salad combo they’d like to share or a great tip for taking a classic salad to another level?

Chef Profiles: Matt Kemp

Matthew Kemp is the Executive Chef/Owner of newly opened The Montpellier Public House in Randwick, Sydney (formerly Restaurant Balzac). Matt kindly responded to the following questions for this blog:

Did a family member influence you regarding cooking in your early life? Who?

Not really. My mother helped organise my first job (an apprenticeship in a Wall St bank operating in the UK).

What type of apprentice were you? Do you believe in apprenticeships?

I was a great apprentice! Yes I do believe in them. It’s the best way to expose the younger generation to the real kitchen world.

At what age did you realise which direction you wanted to take in this industry?

To start cooking – by the age of 13.

My own business – I knew I wanted my own restaurant before the age of 30. [Restaurant] Balzac opened when I was 29 years, 5 months and 26 days old.

After achieving early success, what motivates you to continue in this industry?

You have to have an inner drive that pushes you continuously. In this industry, if you don’t do it no-one will do it for you!

How many attempts when writing a new menu or creating a new dish?

As a chef you never stop thinking about food, new dishes and how to improve – so continuous attempts.

Have you got a signature dish? What is it?

I suppose Bread & Butter Pudding and the use of all secondary cuts of meat.

Describe your best or worst experience in the kitchen:

BEST: Opening my own restaurant.

WORST: Burning 20kg of non-stick rice twice!

Solid teamwork and synchronicity are paramount to success in this industry. How do you build an awesome team?

Not sure on that one yet. But trying to encourage and impact your knowledge and vision for the restaurant is important.

How often have you reinvented yourself or changed direction?

I have had 6 restaurants in total. They have all had a different twist but still an element of me/my cuisine involved.

How much food research do you do?

Daily. Not so much attending industry events but lots of reading and research on the web.

If I wasn’t a chef I’d be … ?

A lot more energetic.

My hobbies are … ?

Cooking.

Still cooking when you’re 50?

I will never stop cooking.

Chef’s Choice:  What is your favourite/recommended brand or type of butter, olive oil, salt, produce etc?

Pepe Saya Butter.

Senses Working Overtime

Food engages the spectrum of my senses (sight, taste, smell, touch and sound) more effectively than any other element in life. It is a source of pleasure and nourishment, evoking memories of years gone by and happy times shared with family and dear friends.

If all the world were biscuit-shaped and we lived in a suburb that resembled Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory (oompah-loompahs and all), what an interesting world it would be! A visual splendour of chocolatey deliciousness, abounding in bright colours, giant lollipops and blueberry girls that swell and burst (yes, I have a sweet tooth!).

The experience of tasting all things whether they are sweet, salty, savoury, sour or bitter. Fairy floss, kalamata olives, cured meats, lemons and dark chocolate. The texture of a Golden Rough, smooth avocado, wobbly jelly or a spongey cake.

The smell of a humble devon and sauce sandwich instantly transporting me back to recess at primary school. The crunch of pork crackling on a Sunday night before watching Underbelly Razor.

It is the simplest of pleasures that take the edge off life’s harsh realities and allow us to create an environment of comfort and reward for a hard day’s work.

If indeed I love food so much, then why was l so utterly disappointed when I received the fabulous present of a stainless steel Kitchen Aid (industrial mixer) from my well-intentioned husband?

The answer is simple. He is the creator of food (a chef) … I saw it as a new tool for him. I am a consumer of food … my job is to appreciate his creations. My personal interests lay elsewhere and I was certain I’d be receiving a new PC that year. The box was the same size, the content vastly different.

I had baked a few cinnamon tea cakes and an apricot slice a few weeks prior to the gift. He was doing his best to encourage me to learn kitchen skills (haha) … the contraption sat idly for years on the kitchen bench, admired by many a home cook on a visit to our kitchen. I was the envy of my sister-in-law and perhaps a few friends.

I realised after many years that I was being selfish. So, I’ve decided now the time has come to dust off the Kitchen Aid and embark on a journey of culinary discovery.

Hold on to your hats, it may be a bumpy ride!

Chef Profiles: Walter Keller

Walter Keller is the Executive Chef of The Westin Sydney and has continued in the role since its opening in 1999. Walter kindly responded to the following questions for this blog:

Did a family member influence you regarding cooking in your early life? Who?

Growing up as third eldest in a big family I saw my mother in cooking action every single day and my father provided her with fresh vegies from the garden and rabbit on Sundays.

Later, in my teens, it was at my best friend’s parents’ restaurant where I got to know what was happening in a busy kitchen with real chefs and demanding guests.

What type of apprentice were you? Do you believe in apprenticeships?

As a baby boomer, times where hard but full of promise. To do an apprenticeship was a must after leaving school in my native Switzerland. I started the journey to become a qualified chef as a 16 year old, away from home in a fine hotel in a big city. One only got good employment with a trade certificate, which is still the way it works today and I strongly believe that this is the only way to begin a solid professional career.

At what age did you realise which direction you wanted to take in this industry?

It was always, from a young boy, my dream to see the world. Then in my school years I got to know a chef working on a large passenger ship and he told me so many stories. It was then, after I finished my apprenticeship that I made my dreams come true, going overseas to work in different five star hotels around the globe and here in Sydney.

After achieving early success, what motivates you to continue in this industry?

Professional pride and appreciation for my achievements. There was so much going on abroad and cooking for royalty, presidents, celebrities etc. was a joy and it inspired me to keep going and to excel. Besides lots of hard work and long days it was, and is still today, why I would choose to be a chef again.

How many attempts when writing a new menu or creating a new dish?

In earlier times, only the Executive Chef made the big decisions and wrote menus and took total control of a kitchen. Today all the Sous Chefs are empowered to take charge and be creative and innovative, but I’ll give professional guidance and make sure that brand standards are being followed and standards are high.

Have you got a signature dish? What is it?

The list would be very long, but out of the huge selection of dishes from my 40 years as a chef one simple Swiss dish is always and everywhere appreciated by the guest. It is the Bircher Muesli; a very healthy and delicious all day dish, which is usually eaten for breakfast, as a light lunch or on a hot day for dinner.

It consists of soaked rolled oats in milk (overnight), honey, yoghurt, grated apple and pear, almond meal or other nuts, some sugar to taste, juice of fresh orange and lemon, lots of fresh berries, bananas and fruits in season.

Describe your best or worst experience in the kitchen.

BEST: The opening of The Westin Sydney in 1999 with very short timeframe to get the kitchen ready to operate and very little time to practice.

I was able to attract some outstanding chefs into my team and the opening was a huge success. Every team member was highly motivated and it was a real joy to be the leader of a superb team and be part of a successful hotel.

Solid teamwork and synchronicity are paramount to success in this industry. How do you build an awesome team?

Employ the best talent with a positive mindset. Groom, develop and inspire the individual, encourage teamwork, lead by example, reward good work and celebrate success.

To be a successful leader one has to lead the dance and be a role model to all.

How often have you reinvented yourself or changed direction? Why?

Every hotel group has a different concept and every country has different laws. One must be able to adjust quickly, adapt and execute effectively. With a solid foundation and lots of experience any challenge can be mastered successfully.

How much food research do you do?

It is very important to be up-to-date with the latest food trends and equipment as well as cooking methods and styles. I eat out weekly and endeavour to eat a variety of different cuisines. As an Executive Chef one has to meet with internal and external customers, suppliers and people from the industry. I attend specific events, food shows, and network with colleagues. I stay informed on chef’s news through media, books and Starwood Hotels and Resorts.

If I wasn’t a chef I’d be …?

I would still have a career in the hotel business. I love to be with people and provide friendly and great service. In my native Switzerland, we are famous for good food, good service and welcoming tourists to experience the hospitality of my home country.

My hobbies are …?

Sport and exercise is what I love. Keeping fit is very important for a healthy body and mind. I also enjoy travelling different countries, listen to music and gardening.

Still cooking when you’re 50?

I’m closing in on 60 and still love my work and the industry. It’s good to be active and engage with the younger generation.

Educating Rita

I love to eat. I’m an average cook. In fact, it’s been a while since I’ve cooked. I met a chef and married him, and thus began my education on the trials and triumphs of life as a chef.

In the early days of our relationship we had a date at one of his previous establishments (degustation, lucky me!). As for the chef, well … hmm, he realised early on that he had an uphill battle to educate this woman on the finer things in life.

Who’s gonna make the gravy?

When you refer to a truffle jus as “the best gravy I’ve ever eaten”, it’s no surprise to be met with a look of abject horror and a rapid denouncement to ensure you don’t mention the word “gravy” to the chef when he comes out to greet you and enquires about your meal.

After all, who could blame the chef for taking offense when a customer refers to his delicate twelve hour master creation as “gravy”? Whoops! Ignorance is bliss.

There are other examples like sending the salmon and tuna steaks back to the kitchen (at home) exclaiming they are not properly cooked and can’t be consumed this way.

Sigh … a lost cause?

Basic cooking techniques are also a point of frustration for the chef (him watching me attempt them). I’ve since learned terms such as rolling boil, braise and blanch (wasn’t she in the Golden Girls?).

How was I to know root vegetables should be placed into cold water and brought to the boil, while leafy greens should only be added to boiling water? It makes things difficult when you were raised on a combination of curries and western food.

Moving forward (haha)

I hope to bring you interesting profiles on Australian chefs from all walks of life in different types of establishments and businesses. I want to present them to you so that you have a better understanding of what they do, how it is done and why they continue to do it.

I endeavour to post items to help educate the uneducated (like me) on basic tips and techniques so I can improve my own cooking (to give the chef a night off) and so that we can truly appreciate the skill and talent of those that serve us spectacular dishes when we dine out. I have a bookshelf full of culinary knowledge and intend to share what I learn with you.

And so, until we meet again … Bon Appetit!